Located in the center of the Mediterranean, halfway between the lands of the West and the East, Sicily has always been, over the centuries, a land of passage and arrival for sailors, a land of conquests, and a pulsating center of great civilizations. It has been an important pawn for purposes greater than itself and, unfortunately, has also been the protagonist of dark moments.
From the Paleolithic to the Roman Empire
Whether due to its location, climate, or resources, Sicily has been inhabited since ancient times. In places like the Aeolian Islands and the Addaura region (Palermo), Paleolithic cave paintings have been discovered, attesting to human presence in prehistoric times. Over the years, numerous peoples succeeded each other, including the Mycenaeans, Ausonians, and Sicani – from whom the Monti Sicani derive their name, and whose origins remain unknown. The first stable and lasting settlements were established by the Phoenicians, skilled navigators who founded the first Sicilian cities along the coasts, starting with Mozia (a small island off Marsala), then Solunto, and finally, Palermo. The Carthaginians later dominated, inheriting and establishing new strongholds such as the city of Erice in the province of Trapani.
On the eastern coast, from Naxos through Syracuse to Agrigento – once known as Akragas – the Greeks arrived, establishing one of their strongest and most prosperous colonies in Sicily, known as Magna Graecia. In their Sicilian colonies, the Greeks built city-states, erected temples, and created magnificent theaters that have endured to this day. Sicily’s importance to the Greeks is evident in its connection to mythology and mythical figures. For example, it was believed that the god Hephaestus had his forge at the foot of Mount Etna, that the god Aeolus lived on the Aeolian Islands, that Dionysus discovered the grape for wine in Sicily, and the fearsome Scilla and Cariddi terrorized sailors in the Strait of Messina. Additionally, the nymph Arethusa, to escape the River god, sought refuge in a spring in Syracuse, which still bears her name.
Meanwhile, the power of Carthage continued to grow, and the beautiful colonies of Magna Graecia attracted Carthaginian interest. They attempted to seize Sicilian territory but were unsuccessful, suffering a tremendous defeat that allowed the Greek colonies to return to normalcy. However, nothing lasts forever, and the Romans interrupted the idyll of Magna Graecia, causing quite a stir. The Romans fully exploited Sicily’s fertile land and transformed it into the “granary” of the empire, producing enough grain to meet Rome’s needs. However, Roman rule had its challenges, and the Carthaginians, likely driven by a sense of revenge for the past defeat by the Greeks, attempted to reclaim the island. This conflict gave rise to the famous two Punic Wars, both of which were won by the Romans. The remains of the warships that sank off the coast of Mozia and Marsala are still visible today.
With the fall of the Roman Empire, Sicily became a target for the Barbarians, and the island was annexed to the Italian peninsula by the Ostrogoth Theodoric. This rule was short-lived, as the Byzantines then set their sights on Sicily, leading to its reconquest. However, the Arabs were drawn to Sicily due to its perfect and strategic geographic location. In a short time, they occupied the island, making Palermo their capital. With the Arabs, Palermo experienced a period of revival as they adorned the city with magnificent architectural works – lush gardens, splendid mosques, and palaces – turning it into a true paradise. The Arabs brought with them their most prized crops – pistachios, orange trees, date palms, and many others – which are still present on the island today and have become true world excellences.
From the Arabs to Garibaldi
The Arabs turned Sicily into a true paradise, but their dominion eventually came to an end, and the subsequent conquerors came from Northern Europe: the Normans. Typically, the idea of a “conqueror” is associated with that of a destroyer, but in this case, it was different. During their reign, the Normans never destroyed what the previous peoples had built; instead, they lived in harmony with various cultures. Arabs, Jews, and Christians coexisted peacefully, respecting one another. The Normans built their structures by “arranging” what the Arabs had constructed, leading to the term Arab-Norman architecture, a perfect blend of two cultures. The real turning point, however, came with Frederick II of Hohenstaufen, Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire, who made Palermo the most important and influential city in Europe, a true center of culture and knowledge, continuing and strengthening what his grandfather Roger II had initiated during his reign.
With the death of Frederick II, unfortunately, a period of decline and uncertainty began for Sicily. It fell into the hands of Carlo D’Angiò, King of France. The Sicilians, however, disagreed and initiated revolts historically known as the Sicilian Vespers. Seeking help, Sicilians turned to Pietro D’Aragona, a Spaniard and descendant of Queen Catherine of Aragon, the wife of Frederick II. This led to a lengthy conflict between the Angevins (French) and the Aragonese (Spanish) known as the War of the Sicilian Vespers. In the early 1300s, the two parties reached a peace agreement and divided the lands into the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies: the Angevins received the Kingdom of Naples, while the Aragonese got Sicily, marking the beginning of Spanish rule in Sicily.
With the decline of the Spanish empire, Sicily was soon forgotten and set aside by the major European powers, entering a dark period. It was governed by “viceroys,” and a feudal system was established, oppressing the population and laying the foundation for what would later become the Sicilian Mafia. To exacerbate matters, there were several natural disasters, such as the major eruption of Mount Etna in 1669 and the bubonic plague that devastated all of Europe. In the early 18th century, through the Treaty of Utrecht, Sicily was handed over to the House of Savoy. Uninterested in the island, they decided to “exchange” it for Sardinia and gave it to the Austrians. From here onwards, Sicily passed back to the Spaniards with the Bourbon dynasty: with Ferdinand I of Bourbon and Ferdinand II of Bourbon, the island did not experience moments of great splendor, and dissent and rebellion among the population began.
The Sicilian revolt was the perfect opportunity for General Garibaldi, who was tasked with unifying Italy. With his thousand red-shirted soldiers, gone down in history as ‘I Mille‘, he landed in the city of Marsala. Garibaldi managed to defeat the Bourbon army, and a few months later, Sicily was annexed to the Kingdom of Italy, ruled by the Savoy (yes, the ones who confused it with Sardinia). Despite the patriotic spirit and optimism that arose, nothing changed in Sicily. The peasants and the less affluent classes remained poor, fostering the growth of the mafia. Unfortunately, the subsequent years were not the best for the Sicilian people; poverty prevailed, leading many to emigrate in search of fortune (United States, South America, Australia). Then came the two World Wars, further complicating the situation.
Sicily from the post-war period to today
The post-war history of Sicily is better known. Sicily started being known for its negative connotations, labeled as the land of the Mafia and an undesirable place. However, the Sicilian people resisted. Two crucial figures played a significant role in helping Sicily break free from this negative reputation. Sicilians are known for being stubborn, and two magistrates, in particular, decided that it couldn’t be this way forever. Sicily could not remain forever enslaved by the Mafia. They bravely fought against this criminal and corrupt system: Giovanni Falcone and Paolo Borsellino lost their lives, but their sacrifice cracked the mafia system. Their sacrifice led to a rebirth for the Sicilian people and a different future for Sicily.
(Photo credits: Salvatore Ciambra)
To detach Sicily from the labels that have been assigned to it over time – land of mafiosi, criminals and scoundrels – is a long journey, but one that has already begun many years ago: the commitment and goodwill of those who live this island every day, of those who daily try to improve it and represent it as it really is or as it could be in the future, are undoubtedly the best weapons against the stereotyped idea that has been created of Sicily over time.
Today, Sicily is a land that fights and seeks improvement. Every Sicilian, in their own way, tries to contribute. The legacy of all the peoples who have succeeded each other in Sicily throughout history is still alive today. Each has left something behind, reflected in the colorful Sicilian dialect, architecture, renowned and delicious food, and traditions still passed down today. Above all, the spirit of hospitality remains ingrained in us, whether for the passing tourist, those in need, or those who choose to make Sicily their home. Just take a look around to understand with a single glance that Sicily is an affectionate land ready to welcome and proudly showcase what it has to offer.
